Saturday, July 08, 2006
Monday, June 19, 2006
My New 2005 Subaru Legacy GT
Year: 2001 VIN: WAURD68DX1A105823Make: Audi
Model: S4
Trim: quattro Turbo
Mileage: 73,410
Exterior Color: Light Silver
VIN: WAURD68DX1A105823
Used Cars for sale San Francisco California - Acura Serramonte
My New Toy ......
sooooo happppyyyyy
Tuesday, December 27, 2005
Friday, March 04, 2005
Audi Repair in the Bay Area
Some Decent Audi Repair Shops in the Bay Area:
EuroQuattro, Inc. in Mountain View
Autowerkstat.com in San Jose
Griffin Motorwerke in Berkeley
Larry's Autoworks in Mountain View
New Dimensions in Santa Clara
Wolfsport in Berkeley
EuroQuattro, Inc. in Mountain View
Autowerkstat.com in San Jose
Griffin Motorwerke in Berkeley
Larry's Autoworks in Mountain View
New Dimensions in Santa Clara
Wolfsport in Berkeley
Replacement Driveshafts www.driveshaftstore.com
$400 for a used driveshaft with 1 year warranty.
Hmmm....
Replacement Driveshafts for Cars Such as BMW, Honda Mercedes, Toyota and Many More.
Hmmm....
Replacement Driveshafts for Cars Such as BMW, Honda Mercedes, Toyota and Many More.
Audi quattro driveline and transmission info
Audi 200 quattro driveline and transmission info: "Center Driveshaft
Center Driveshaft
Lubricate
Look at the connection point, just above where the rear diff is and look in there. Use a flashlight. You will see a small square looking piece that is slightly sticking out in that joint there. On (or in) that square piece is a little hole. Get your can of spray white lithium grease and spray some in there. Refer to section 39.22 of the Bentley manual. It said to do this approx every 10K miles. Most have NEVER been done! It has to be in a certain position to really get at it right. (Some cars may not have this; mine does).
R&R
If your center driveshaft bearing goes bad (driveline noise between center
and rear diffs), you have three options. Audi says that you have to buy the
whole driveshaft for big $$$. Blaufergnugen will rebuild it for you for less
$$$. Or you can try the following for relatively few $. Be forewarned: The
procedure below was performed on an ur-q and 4Kq, so I'm not sure the part
numbers listed will work on our 20V models; you may have to do some
detective work.
It seems that the whole carrier assembly is available that includes bearing
and the mounting rubber. Catch, this is a BMW part (26 12 1 209 532). Cost
of this part is around $35 from GPR (800-321-5432) and has the advantage of
replacing all the mounting rubber although the rubber isn't usually bad.
They also have drive shaft CV Joints for $93 each.
Special Tools: Other than metric socket & openend wrenches all I needed was
one of the 12 point modified hex keys that is needed to remove the socket
cap bolts that hold the CV joints to the drive flanges. Bentley shows a
homemade alignment tool (which I didn't make).
Parts Needed: It is recommended that the CV joint seals be replaced, these
seals go between the CV joint and the drive flange and are available from
the dealer. 911 Turbo cvjoints fit. Part number for the cvjoint is 951 332 901 00.
I don't have part numbers for the bearing or ujoint, but the
bearing is a standard FAG part. I was able to get a replacement for the
ujoint by measuring the dimensions of the cap & spider (This was necessary
because I broke one of the needle bearings when I was putting it back
together! BE CAREFUL)
Bentley's Caveats: Do not bend driveshaft, always store and transport in
parallel position. Tie up shafts when removing and installing driveshaft.
(If you've got the car up on a rack it might be possible for the driveshaft
to hang down far enough to cause a problem. If you are working under a car
on jack stands all that is probably needed is to protect the CV joints from
contamination.)
Driveshaft, Removing: (From Bentley) Detach driveshaft from transmission
flange. Tie up shaft end. [I recommend putting a heavy duty plastic bag
(ZipLock) over the end of the CV joint.] Detach driveshaft from rear final
drive flange. If necessary engage differential lock and block wheel. Tie up
[and bag] shaft end. Detach center bearing from body and take out
driveshaft. You might want to test the axial bearing and ujoint at this
point to verify that they need to be replaced! The bearing might have a
gritty feel as it is turned or make noise as the housing is spun as fast as
possible.
Now that you've got the driveshaft out you will see that there is a nut that
holds the fore end of the ujoint yoke to the the foreshaft. It was not
possible for me to fit an openend wrench in there to loosen the nut until I
had disassembled the ujoint & yoke (but I would recommend trying it because
it would certainly be preferable to keep the ujoint intact). This was done
by removing the spring clips for the cups in the foreshaft yoke and then
using a socket as a drift punch to remove the cups. It is probably much more
civilized to create a makeshift press using appropriately sized sockets and
a bench vise. It should be possible to remove the spider from the foreshaft
yoke after both cups have been removed, but it seems to me that I removed
all 4 cups for some reason. I recommend keeping track of which cup attaches
to which leg of the spider, but that probably doesn't matter since they are
machined parts. While you're at this point it is possible to check for
proper lubrication of the bearings in the ujoint and scoring on the bearing
surface of the spider.
With the ujoint disconnected from the fore yoke it should be possible to get
a socket in there to loosen the nut. I held the foreshaft in a vise to keep
it from turning. Once the nut is removed the yoke can be taken off (it is
splined to the foreshaft. You may need to squirt a little penetrating
lubricant in there to help. Once the yoke is removed the axial bearing and
housing can be removed from the foreshaft. The bearing was not pressed on,
but it did take a little work to get it off.
Looking at the bearing & housing it will be apparent which way the bearing
comes out. It is pressed in, but it isn't too tough to press the bearing out
with a mallet and something large enough to keep the housing stationary (I
don't remember, but I probably adjusted the width of the vise jaws to be
about the OD of the bearing and then used a socket as a drift punch (love
that Craftsman guarantee :) It wouldn't be a big deal to take the thing to a
machine shop to do it right. The part number for the bearing can be read at
this point and a suitable replacement procured. The original bearing was
made by INA with a part number of: 6006RSR The replacement was made by FAG
and had a few more numbers on it (at least the box had more numbers):
6006.2RSR.T.C3
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but be very careful when
reassembling the ujoint. It is tough to know if one of the needle bearings
has fallen into the bottom of the cup while you are driving the end caps
back onto the spider. As I recall I had to insert the spider into the
foreshaft yoke (after reassembling the foreshaft, bearing & housing and
foreshaft yoke of course!) and then install the cups by hand. It is probably
best to use a vise to get the cups inserted as far as possible into the yoke
(maybe even all the way with the help of a couple of sockets). Then replace
the spring clips and you're ready to reinstall the driveshaft in the car. Go
ahead and grease the ujoint before installation (service interval is 15K
miles). Also remember to clean off the sealing surfaces on the CV joint and
the mounting flanges and to replace the seals when everything goes back
together.
Tightening torques:
* driveshaft/trans. flange 55 Nm(40 ftlb)
* driveshaft/final drive flange 55 Nm(40 ftlb)
* center bearing/body 20 Nm(14 ftlb)
NOTE: Driveshaft must be adjusted during installation. The Bentley manual
has several pictures and special tools for adjusting the driveshaft during
installation. The whole idea of the procedure is to ensure that the two
halves of the driveshaft are as co-linear as possible. During installation
the center bearing housing can be adjusted up & down with shims and left and
right with slots in the mounting holes on the housing. I marked the bolt
locations on the housing and installed the same shims that were originally
present.
Center Driveshaft
Lubricate
Look at the connection point, just above where the rear diff is and look in there. Use a flashlight. You will see a small square looking piece that is slightly sticking out in that joint there. On (or in) that square piece is a little hole. Get your can of spray white lithium grease and spray some in there. Refer to section 39.22 of the Bentley manual. It said to do this approx every 10K miles. Most have NEVER been done! It has to be in a certain position to really get at it right. (Some cars may not have this; mine does).
R&R
If your center driveshaft bearing goes bad (driveline noise between center
and rear diffs), you have three options. Audi says that you have to buy the
whole driveshaft for big $$$. Blaufergnugen will rebuild it for you for less
$$$. Or you can try the following for relatively few $. Be forewarned: The
procedure below was performed on an ur-q and 4Kq, so I'm not sure the part
numbers listed will work on our 20V models; you may have to do some
detective work.
It seems that the whole carrier assembly is available that includes bearing
and the mounting rubber. Catch, this is a BMW part (26 12 1 209 532). Cost
of this part is around $35 from GPR (800-321-5432) and has the advantage of
replacing all the mounting rubber although the rubber isn't usually bad.
They also have drive shaft CV Joints for $93 each.
Special Tools: Other than metric socket & openend wrenches all I needed was
one of the 12 point modified hex keys that is needed to remove the socket
cap bolts that hold the CV joints to the drive flanges. Bentley shows a
homemade alignment tool (which I didn't make).
Parts Needed: It is recommended that the CV joint seals be replaced, these
seals go between the CV joint and the drive flange and are available from
the dealer. 911 Turbo cvjoints fit. Part number for the cvjoint is 951 332 901 00.
I don't have part numbers for the bearing or ujoint, but the
bearing is a standard FAG part. I was able to get a replacement for the
ujoint by measuring the dimensions of the cap & spider (This was necessary
because I broke one of the needle bearings when I was putting it back
together! BE CAREFUL)
Bentley's Caveats: Do not bend driveshaft, always store and transport in
parallel position. Tie up shafts when removing and installing driveshaft.
(If you've got the car up on a rack it might be possible for the driveshaft
to hang down far enough to cause a problem. If you are working under a car
on jack stands all that is probably needed is to protect the CV joints from
contamination.)
Driveshaft, Removing: (From Bentley) Detach driveshaft from transmission
flange. Tie up shaft end. [I recommend putting a heavy duty plastic bag
(ZipLock) over the end of the CV joint.] Detach driveshaft from rear final
drive flange. If necessary engage differential lock and block wheel. Tie up
[and bag] shaft end. Detach center bearing from body and take out
driveshaft. You might want to test the axial bearing and ujoint at this
point to verify that they need to be replaced! The bearing might have a
gritty feel as it is turned or make noise as the housing is spun as fast as
possible.
Now that you've got the driveshaft out you will see that there is a nut that
holds the fore end of the ujoint yoke to the the foreshaft. It was not
possible for me to fit an openend wrench in there to loosen the nut until I
had disassembled the ujoint & yoke (but I would recommend trying it because
it would certainly be preferable to keep the ujoint intact). This was done
by removing the spring clips for the cups in the foreshaft yoke and then
using a socket as a drift punch to remove the cups. It is probably much more
civilized to create a makeshift press using appropriately sized sockets and
a bench vise. It should be possible to remove the spider from the foreshaft
yoke after both cups have been removed, but it seems to me that I removed
all 4 cups for some reason. I recommend keeping track of which cup attaches
to which leg of the spider, but that probably doesn't matter since they are
machined parts. While you're at this point it is possible to check for
proper lubrication of the bearings in the ujoint and scoring on the bearing
surface of the spider.
With the ujoint disconnected from the fore yoke it should be possible to get
a socket in there to loosen the nut. I held the foreshaft in a vise to keep
it from turning. Once the nut is removed the yoke can be taken off (it is
splined to the foreshaft. You may need to squirt a little penetrating
lubricant in there to help. Once the yoke is removed the axial bearing and
housing can be removed from the foreshaft. The bearing was not pressed on,
but it did take a little work to get it off.
Looking at the bearing & housing it will be apparent which way the bearing
comes out. It is pressed in, but it isn't too tough to press the bearing out
with a mallet and something large enough to keep the housing stationary (I
don't remember, but I probably adjusted the width of the vise jaws to be
about the OD of the bearing and then used a socket as a drift punch (love
that Craftsman guarantee :) It wouldn't be a big deal to take the thing to a
machine shop to do it right. The part number for the bearing can be read at
this point and a suitable replacement procured. The original bearing was
made by INA with a part number of: 6006RSR The replacement was made by FAG
and had a few more numbers on it (at least the box had more numbers):
6006.2RSR.T.C3
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but be very careful when
reassembling the ujoint. It is tough to know if one of the needle bearings
has fallen into the bottom of the cup while you are driving the end caps
back onto the spider. As I recall I had to insert the spider into the
foreshaft yoke (after reassembling the foreshaft, bearing & housing and
foreshaft yoke of course!) and then install the cups by hand. It is probably
best to use a vise to get the cups inserted as far as possible into the yoke
(maybe even all the way with the help of a couple of sockets). Then replace
the spring clips and you're ready to reinstall the driveshaft in the car. Go
ahead and grease the ujoint before installation (service interval is 15K
miles). Also remember to clean off the sealing surfaces on the CV joint and
the mounting flanges and to replace the seals when everything goes back
together.
Tightening torques:
* driveshaft/trans. flange 55 Nm(40 ftlb)
* driveshaft/final drive flange 55 Nm(40 ftlb)
* center bearing/body 20 Nm(14 ftlb)
NOTE: Driveshaft must be adjusted during installation. The Bentley manual
has several pictures and special tools for adjusting the driveshaft during
installation. The whole idea of the procedure is to ensure that the two
halves of the driveshaft are as co-linear as possible. During installation
the center bearing housing can be adjusted up & down with shims and left and
right with slots in the mounting holes on the housing. I marked the bolt
locations on the housing and installed the same shims that were originally
present.
Driveshaft R&R FAQ :: S-CARS.ORG :: The Web's Oldest S-Car Enthusiast Organization... Celebrating Our Sixth Year!
Driveshaft R&R FAQ :: S-CARS.ORG :: The Web's Oldest S-Car Enthusiast Organization... Celebrating Our Sixth Year!: "The reason I pulled my driveshaft was because I was hearing an awful rattling sound upon any kind of deceleration. Sometimes the sound was tinny, other times it sounded gravely (sometimes, it just sounded grave). It turns out that my front CV joint had dried out and what grease was left, had turned thick and pasty. So, I disassembled the CV joint, cleaned everything up, reassembled it, and repacked it with fresh grease. The sound disappeared. Since that was the source of my problem, I abandoned replacing the carrier bearing for now. If anyone moves forward o�n this, please advise me and I shall update the FAQ. "
Driveshaft R&R - a workaround with a BMW carrier bearing
UrS4/S6 Driveshaft R&R :: S-CARS.ORG :: The Web's Oldest S-Car Enthusiast Organization... Celebrating Our Sixth Year!:
"One problem o�n these cars as they age would be the center driveshaft U-joint.
The center u-joint is non-serviceable o�n the UrS4/6 as it is staked in. This does not mean that you must automatically pay $1100 for a new driveshaft from Audi! You can, however, remove the front portion of the shaft from the u-joint and replace the bearing, but you will need a MAPP torch to separate the splined gear from the u-joint.
The center rubber carrier may be replaced with a unit from a BMW, but that you need to fabricate/modify the bracket.
If you do not have the Audi alignment tool to remove, be sure to index the joints o�n both diffs, and mark carefully the position of the center carrier bearing, otherwise, an out-of-alignment center prop shaft will vibrate and without a doubt will shorten the service life of both end CV's, the center u-joint, and possibly more.
Be sure to repack completely your driveshaft CV joints, and clean up any mess.
I think you are confusing the bearing from the support. The "support" is the rubber bushing and metal bracket that supports the bearing, and you can modify a BMW part. You can replace the bearing with any number of configurations, but I decided to talk to the horse itself - FAG Bearings.
The OE FAG bearing is p/n 639850.R20.28, and is made in Germany, but is NLA.
I tore down my prop shaft last summer, the night before a track event. I replaced the center bearing with a FAG unit from New Hampshire Ball Bearings ( Tel: 603-924-4100). The OE bearing uses a polyamide cage, which is NLA - FAG presently only makes a bearing for this application with a steel cage. The bearing cost me no more than $14-18. FAG p/n 6006.2RSR.C3. This replacement bearing is made in Korea.
You'll need a 12-point torx socket to yank the prop shaft (T-55?) I can't remember the exact size, but I bought a cheap 8-piece set at Autozone, and it had the correct size.
As far as I know, the u-joint is specific to Audi. on the cars with carbon fibre shafts, this non-serviceable joint was "staked" into the cradle - there is no bolt-on "strap" or cir-clip to center and lock the u-joint into the cradle. A former lister mfg'd a jig to cut out the stake marks, remove the joint, replace and restake, all the while ensuring that the joint was properly aligned in the cradle, but he is no longer doing work on Audi's.
Your best bet is to find a used prop shaft - ask around on the list, or try the usual suspects.
"One problem o�n these cars as they age would be the center driveshaft U-joint.
The center u-joint is non-serviceable o�n the UrS4/6 as it is staked in. This does not mean that you must automatically pay $1100 for a new driveshaft from Audi! You can, however, remove the front portion of the shaft from the u-joint and replace the bearing, but you will need a MAPP torch to separate the splined gear from the u-joint.
The center rubber carrier may be replaced with a unit from a BMW, but that you need to fabricate/modify the bracket.
If you do not have the Audi alignment tool to remove, be sure to index the joints o�n both diffs, and mark carefully the position of the center carrier bearing, otherwise, an out-of-alignment center prop shaft will vibrate and without a doubt will shorten the service life of both end CV's, the center u-joint, and possibly more.
Be sure to repack completely your driveshaft CV joints, and clean up any mess.
I think you are confusing the bearing from the support. The "support" is the rubber bushing and metal bracket that supports the bearing, and you can modify a BMW part. You can replace the bearing with any number of configurations, but I decided to talk to the horse itself - FAG Bearings.
The OE FAG bearing is p/n 639850.R20.28, and is made in Germany, but is NLA.
I tore down my prop shaft last summer, the night before a track event. I replaced the center bearing with a FAG unit from New Hampshire Ball Bearings ( Tel: 603-924-4100). The OE bearing uses a polyamide cage, which is NLA - FAG presently only makes a bearing for this application with a steel cage. The bearing cost me no more than $14-18. FAG p/n 6006.2RSR.C3. This replacement bearing is made in Korea.
You'll need a 12-point torx socket to yank the prop shaft (T-55?) I can't remember the exact size, but I bought a cheap 8-piece set at Autozone, and it had the correct size.
As far as I know, the u-joint is specific to Audi. on the cars with carbon fibre shafts, this non-serviceable joint was "staked" into the cradle - there is no bolt-on "strap" or cir-clip to center and lock the u-joint into the cradle. A former lister mfg'd a jig to cut out the stake marks, remove the joint, replace and restake, all the while ensuring that the joint was properly aligned in the cradle, but he is no longer doing work on Audi's.
Your best bet is to find a used prop shaft - ask around on the list, or try the usual suspects.
Thursday, February 24, 2005
Much Sadness In Mudville -- Need New Center Support Bearing
So, I've just been informed that my dear old audi needs a new center support bearing. Audi bearing's are not, however, servicable, so you have to replace the entire driveshaft. Estimate at the local mechanic: $2700. I think I can locate one for around $400 and do the work myself, although I'm sure it will involve much cursing and sweating.
To see what it might look like in there, take a looksie - AudiWorld Forums: Driveshaft R&R(long)
These guys are fantastic, by the way. The shop was straighforward, direct about price, reasonable in their diagnostic charge, and best of all drove me to work in an old Chevy Bel Air. Larry's Auto Works
To see what it might look like in there, take a looksie - AudiWorld Forums: Driveshaft R&R(long)
These guys are fantastic, by the way. The shop was straighforward, direct about price, reasonable in their diagnostic charge, and best of all drove me to work in an old Chevy Bel Air. Larry's Auto Works
AudiWorld Tech Articles
So, I've got the service due light on on my 1996 Audi A4, 2.8 Quattro on, and tried the following to fix. It's a no go on the 96's. AudiWorld Tech Articles When the dealer services your car, they are supposed to reset the oil or service interval warning light that comes on in place of your trip odometer when you start your car. It can be temporarily reset, by pushing the odometer reset. But when the ignition is turned off, the service warning will reappear when you restart your car. To reset it permanently, follow these instructions: Insert your key into the ignition. Push in the odometer reset button, hold it in, and turn the key to the first click. The display should read either "oil" or "service" if it does not, repeat steps #1 and #2. To reset, pull out your instrument light dimmer button at the bottom of the tachometer. Turn the ignition to the off position. When the ignition is turned back on, the display should be back to the trip odometer. Note: This procedure has been confirmed on '98 and '99 model year A4's. Ah well what can you do.
The List of Work To Be Done:
Here's the list of projects I'm going to take on in the next couple of months with the audi:
1) Debadge
2) Front Upper control arms - all four
3) Front Lower control arms - fronts - recall me baby
4) Coolant Reservoir Replacement
5) Replace plugs and wires
6) Fix armrest
7) Install ipod mount
8) Replace Brake Fluid
9) Strange Noises in the night
10) Synthetic Differential Fluid - Front and Rear
11) Recharge Air Conditioner
12) Neuspeed Short- Shift kit
1) Debadge
2) Front Upper control arms - all four
3) Front Lower control arms - fronts - recall me baby
4) Coolant Reservoir Replacement
5) Replace plugs and wires
6) Fix armrest
7) Install ipod mount
8) Replace Brake Fluid
9) Strange Noises in the night
10) Synthetic Differential Fluid - Front and Rear
11) Recharge Air Conditioner
12) Neuspeed Short- Shift kit
About the Audi A4
1996 Audi A4 Specifications
Quick Specs
Body Styles: 4-Dr Sedan
Engines: 2.8L V6
Transmissions: 5 Speed Automatic; 5 Speed Manual
Drivetrains: All Wheel Drive; Front Wheel Drive
1996 Audi A4 Performance & Efficiency Standard Features
-2,771 cc 2.8 liters 6 V 90° front longitudinal engine with 82.5 mm bore, 86.4 mm stroke, 10.3 compression ratio, cast iron block, light alloy head, overhead cam, automatic valve adjustment and two valves per cylinder
-Unleaded fuel
-Fuel economy EPA highway (l/100km): 8.7
-Multi-point injection fuel system
-Main 62 liter fuel tank
-Power: 128 kW , 172 HP @ 5,500 rpm; 184 ft lb @ 3,000 rpm
1996 Audi A4 Handling, Ride & Braking Standard Features
-ABS
-3.7:1 axle ratio
-Front differential lock
-Four disc brakes including two ventilated discs
-Electronic traction control via differential
-Immobilizer
-Spacesaver steel rim internal spare wheel
-Multi-link front suspension with stabilizer bar independent with coil springs , torsion beam rear suspension with stabilizer bar rigid with coil springs
1996 Audi A4 Exterior & Aerodynamics Standard Features
-Body color narrow body side molding
-Front and rear body color impact absorbing bumpers
-Chrome/bright trim around side windows
-Driver power heated body color door mirrors , passenger power heated body color door mirrors with wide angle
-External dimensions: overall length (mm): 4,521, overall width (mm): 1,732, overall height (mm): 1,417, wheelbase (mm): 2,616, front track (mm): 1,496, rear track (mm): 1,478 and curb to curb turning circle (mm): 11,095
-Front fog lights
-High pressure headlight cleaners
-Complex surface lens halogen bulb single headlights
-Luxury trim
-Black paint , gloss paint , metallic paint , pearl paint
-Fixed rear window
-Tinted glass
-Weights: curb weight (kg) 1,350
-Two-speed windshield wipers with fixed intermittent wipe
1996 Audi A4 Interior Standard Features
-CFC free liquid air conditioning
-Element antenna
-Remote control anti-theft protection
-Front and rear illuminated ashtray
-Audio anti-theft protection: code
-Stereo audio system with AM/FM
-Cargo area light
-Cargo capacity: rear seat up; to lower window (liters): 388 and all seats in place (liters): 388
-Front seats illuminated cigar lighter , additional row seats cigar lighter
-Analog clock
-Floor full console with covered storage box
-Delayed/fade courtesy lights with four switches in footwell
-Steering wheel mounted cruise control
-Front seats and rear seats cup holders
-Door pockets/bins for driver seat and passenger seat
-External temperature gauge
-Floor covering: carpet in passenger compartment and carpet in load area
-Carpet floor mats
-Driver and passenger front airbag
-Bucket seat , bucket seat
-3-point reel height adjustable front seat belts on driver seat and passenger seat with pre-tensioners
-Adjustable folding front seat center armrest with integral box
-Lockable illuminated glove compartment with lid
-Height adjustable head restraints on front seats and rear seats
-Internal dimensions: front headroom (mm): 968, rear headroom (mm): 935, front leg room (mm): 1,049, rear leg room (mm): 848, front shoulder room (mm): 1,389, rear shoulder room (mm): 1,356 and interior volume (liters): 2,483
-Low fuel level warning
-Key power locks with internal switch includes trunk/hatch, includes fuel filler door, operates from: trunk/hatch and operates from passenger door
-Power steering
-Front power windows with two one-touch , rear power windows
-Front and rear reading lights
-3-point reel rear seat belts on driver side, passenger side and center side
-Folding rear seat center armrest
-Split bench asymmetrical three rear seats
-Rear view mirror
-Front seat back storage
-Upgraded cloth/velour seat upholstery with additional upgraded cloth/velour
-Seating: five seats
-Six speakers
-Leather covered steering wheel
-Tachometer
-Driver and passenger illuminated vanity mirror
-Ventilation system with four fan speeds, recirculation setting, rear seat heater ducts and micro filter
Quick Specs
Body Styles: 4-Dr Sedan
Engines: 2.8L V6
Transmissions: 5 Speed Automatic; 5 Speed Manual
Drivetrains: All Wheel Drive; Front Wheel Drive
1996 Audi A4 Performance & Efficiency Standard Features
-2,771 cc 2.8 liters 6 V 90° front longitudinal engine with 82.5 mm bore, 86.4 mm stroke, 10.3 compression ratio, cast iron block, light alloy head, overhead cam, automatic valve adjustment and two valves per cylinder
-Unleaded fuel
-Fuel economy EPA highway (l/100km): 8.7
-Multi-point injection fuel system
-Main 62 liter fuel tank
-Power: 128 kW , 172 HP @ 5,500 rpm; 184 ft lb @ 3,000 rpm
1996 Audi A4 Handling, Ride & Braking Standard Features
-ABS
-3.7:1 axle ratio
-Front differential lock
-Four disc brakes including two ventilated discs
-Electronic traction control via differential
-Immobilizer
-Spacesaver steel rim internal spare wheel
-Multi-link front suspension with stabilizer bar independent with coil springs , torsion beam rear suspension with stabilizer bar rigid with coil springs
1996 Audi A4 Exterior & Aerodynamics Standard Features
-Body color narrow body side molding
-Front and rear body color impact absorbing bumpers
-Chrome/bright trim around side windows
-Driver power heated body color door mirrors , passenger power heated body color door mirrors with wide angle
-External dimensions: overall length (mm): 4,521, overall width (mm): 1,732, overall height (mm): 1,417, wheelbase (mm): 2,616, front track (mm): 1,496, rear track (mm): 1,478 and curb to curb turning circle (mm): 11,095
-Front fog lights
-High pressure headlight cleaners
-Complex surface lens halogen bulb single headlights
-Luxury trim
-Black paint , gloss paint , metallic paint , pearl paint
-Fixed rear window
-Tinted glass
-Weights: curb weight (kg) 1,350
-Two-speed windshield wipers with fixed intermittent wipe
1996 Audi A4 Interior Standard Features
-CFC free liquid air conditioning
-Element antenna
-Remote control anti-theft protection
-Front and rear illuminated ashtray
-Audio anti-theft protection: code
-Stereo audio system with AM/FM
-Cargo area light
-Cargo capacity: rear seat up; to lower window (liters): 388 and all seats in place (liters): 388
-Front seats illuminated cigar lighter , additional row seats cigar lighter
-Analog clock
-Floor full console with covered storage box
-Delayed/fade courtesy lights with four switches in footwell
-Steering wheel mounted cruise control
-Front seats and rear seats cup holders
-Door pockets/bins for driver seat and passenger seat
-External temperature gauge
-Floor covering: carpet in passenger compartment and carpet in load area
-Carpet floor mats
-Driver and passenger front airbag
-Bucket seat , bucket seat
-3-point reel height adjustable front seat belts on driver seat and passenger seat with pre-tensioners
-Adjustable folding front seat center armrest with integral box
-Lockable illuminated glove compartment with lid
-Height adjustable head restraints on front seats and rear seats
-Internal dimensions: front headroom (mm): 968, rear headroom (mm): 935, front leg room (mm): 1,049, rear leg room (mm): 848, front shoulder room (mm): 1,389, rear shoulder room (mm): 1,356 and interior volume (liters): 2,483
-Low fuel level warning
-Key power locks with internal switch includes trunk/hatch, includes fuel filler door, operates from: trunk/hatch and operates from passenger door
-Power steering
-Front power windows with two one-touch , rear power windows
-Front and rear reading lights
-3-point reel rear seat belts on driver side, passenger side and center side
-Folding rear seat center armrest
-Split bench asymmetrical three rear seats
-Rear view mirror
-Front seat back storage
-Upgraded cloth/velour seat upholstery with additional upgraded cloth/velour
-Seating: five seats
-Six speakers
-Leather covered steering wheel
-Tachometer
-Driver and passenger illuminated vanity mirror
-Ventilation system with four fan speeds, recirculation setting, rear seat heater ducts and micro filter
Previous Posts
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